I’ve written and rewritten so many versions of this review, all of them starting with this Kiya (of Self Edge fame) interview about how Rick Owens bought an Iron Heart Flannel. It was a cool reference to bring up years ago when that article was only known by the real heads, but now I just sound like a plebby bandwagoner. Another gem in that article, though, is this quote about Iron Heart:
I love that brand. It has this certain will to it, like “we will try to find the heaviest things that cannot be put together or stitched together, and you know what? Fuck it, we’re going to do it.”
That really sums the Ultra-Heavy flannel up. It’s so unreasonably thick that none of your sweaters or cardigans will work as a layer over it, that it’s impossible to button up the morning after a night of binge drinking, that all your other shirts become incels after witnessing its chadness. Those may sound to your like drawbacks, but that’s because unlike the Ultra-Heavy flannel, you’re not a chad.
Okay enough stupid incel talk. Not often mentioned with this shirt are the completely unnecessary but nerdily cool details such as the dangly orange chainstitch runoffs and screenprinted wash instructions on the interior. With every new release also comes more interesting patterns than on the one I got a few years back.
The decent-but-uninteresting buttons on the non-Western version leaves something to be desired, the collars look weird when the top is unbuttoned, and at over $300 per, the heaviest flannel shirt in existence comes with an equally heavy price tag. But, it is the ultimate expression and the only true endgame version of the flannel shirt. The process of handpicking wild Andes-mountain cotton followed by shipping to Japan for dying, weaving and stitching is over-the-top in a way that only Iron Heart is capable of.
Go true to size if you want that oh-so-soft double brushed cotton rubbing against your nipples, or go up a size if you’re worried that its constant arousal would distract you from work and want to fit a layer in-between. Support the good people over at Iron Heart America, Canoe Club, or my favorite store, Self Edge.